When executed right, nothing hits the spot quite like a good sandwich. Which is something that local hospitality veterans Nick Landsman and Emma Ogilvie (the couple behind Bar Céleste) are banking on in their cool new K’ Road spot, Gloria’s — a classic deli serving simple, hearty food with excellent flavours.
Set in the space that was formerly Star Superette (the duo’s popular wine shop), Gloria’s fit-out is small but welcoming, with a laid-back vibe and fuss-free details. From its chalkboard menu to its checkerboard floors and its line-up of simple barstools — the bakery provides the perfect place for hungry punters to perch at lunchtime, something that Landsman and Ogilvie tell me they thought was missing from the area.
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With Gloria’s, the duo decided to go back to basics, first asking themselves what they loved making, and then figuring out what they thought was needed. The idea of a deli and sandwich shop kept emerging, and the concept just made sense. It was, as Ogilvie describes, “perfectly suited to a post-covid vibe”.
Drawing inspiration from the classic Jewish delis of New York and a style of sandwich shop that has been growing in popularity in Australia, Landsman and Ogilvie created Gloria’s as a new take on a traditional format, where good food and quality ingredients collide in a setting that almost gives off a retro vibe.
The crown jewel of Gloria’s offering is sandwiches. Whether fresh or toasted, the sandwiches hero sensational homemade bread (so good we would honestly devour by itself), with housemade sauces, salted beef, and other ever-changing fillings that provide something for every possible taste. This was swiftly joined by a line-up of piping-hot pies and elevated sausage rolls, to make the offering even more enticing on a chilly day.
Take the corned beef sausage roll, for instance. Wrapped in buttery pastry that melts in the mouth, dusted with fennel seeds and boasting a flavoursome, wholesome filling, it is both a unique take on a classic dish and also carries the comforting quality of something your grandma might have made (if she was into that kind of thing). In fact, it is in this juxtaposition of new flavours with old-school ideas that Gloria’s really thrives. For Landsman and Ogilvie, Gloria (they imagine) is the proprietor of a space that is a little bit nostalgic and reminiscent of our great local delis of days gone by — just with a few, up-to-date tweaks.
On the drinks side of things, Gloria’s selection is (unsurprisingly) simple and satiating, basically comprising an Almighty fridge filled with refreshing pick-me-ups. For those seeking something a little stronger, Supreme coffee is also on hand, expertly made by Andrew Lavich (a familiar face to many from his tenure at Honey Bones).
Having only just opened its doors, Gloria’s has (as Ogilvie explains) many more things in the works — from family pies to catering options to takeaway salads and even refreshing juices. And considering the enthusiastic crowds it has already drawn in its first week alone, we will be watching this space with interest.
Opening hours:
Tuesday — Saturday, 7am until 2pm.
