When you ask Lewis Mazza-Carson to tell you about K’Rd’s latest laid-back local — his new co-venture occupying an iconic corner site, he’ll sum it up in a single line, “it’s just a damn good local, really.”
Although, first impressions suggest it might be a little more than that. Mazza-Carson is the talent behind wildly popular Pie Rolla’s, the instant cult sensation ‘pie hole’ slinging pies that sell out in minutes and draw lines that snake around the corner come lunchtime. Now, taking up the iconic K’ Rd address previously home to The Thirsty Dog, Mazza-Carson, alongside his parents — hospitality heavyweights Aaron Carson and Fran Mazza (of Ada fame), are opening the doors to a laid-back bar & bistro set to be the new local.
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“We have a pretty deep connection with K’ Rd,” Mazza-Carson tells me, “My parents met playing in venues on this street, and they got married on Karangahape Rd in the 90’s.” This new venture — a family affair — stays true to K’ Rd’s essence, not taking itself too seriously and knowing how to facilitate a damn good time. In Mazza-Carson’s words: “You know that feeling when the vibe at a party is just right? That’s what we’re looking to create here. It’s not snooty or some kind of once-a-year experience, it’s just a great, reliable local that anyone can feel comfortable in.”
We were lucky enough to get a preview of the space and menu, and it was instantly apparent that this family’s passion for hospitality — and immense skill in crafting venues that resonate, runs deep. Ex-Ada sous chef and Mazza-Carson’s partner in Pie Rolla’s, Patrick Marckus, heads up the kitchen, bringing his extensive expertise and unique skill set to the fore with a menu that captures his journey thus far. From growing up in Germany with Hungarian restauranteur parents to his time spent working in the kitchens of global, Michelin-starred eateries, to finding a home (and an extended family in the Mazza-Carsons) here in New Zealand — his diverse experience finds it’s footing, in an elevated take on European home cooking.
On the menu, you’ll find what Mazza-Carson describes as food that sits above pub level, but is more accessible than fine dining. The venison pie is hand-crafted with suet pastry — a 400-year-old recipe that takes on a unique, bread-like texture and flavour, beautifully offset by a hearty venison ragù — served with bone marrow and a tart cranberry sauce. The handmade ricotta and potato dumplings with brown butter sauce (Mazza-Carson’s nonna’s recipe) are a beautiful, novel take on pasta, and, those looking for their pub fare fix will find it in their fish & chips. Served with a whipped pea purée alongside potato skins, this is perhaps the lightest and most delectable rendition of the Kiwi staple you’ll find anywhere. You’ll also find burgers, BBQ chicken, and T-bone steak on the menu, alongside a number of very well-priced starters and sides which go down well as sharing plates. Also on offer will be a proper Sunday roast, which we have a sneaking suspicion will be met with fervour by locals.
But, one of the best things about this spot, is that it’s not simply a dining destination. Their tables are for everyone — no matter what you’re in for, and those popping in for a quick pint or coffee and dessert will find a seat just as easily as those looking for a three-course meal and cocktails. In fact, drive past and you’ll get a glimpse at the outdoor set-up — a smattering of street-side tables (soaked in sun) that the team hopes will attract casual diners looking for a pint or reasonably-priced glass of wine — enjoyed alongside a pie from the Pie Rolla’s window, which will soon be available all day with all of the trimmings, from mushy peas to mash and gravy.
When it comes to the drinks list, it was approached with care, with Mazza-Carson and the team working with local wineries and breweries to develop a menu that means you don’t have to spend a fortune to enjoy a great drink. As such, you’ll find house wines at local pub prices (amongst more elevated drops for those who want them), and close to ten beers on tap, running the gamut from classics to craft, with a rotating guest pour that is reserved for exciting new brews. The cocktail list is fresh and inventive — properly boozy cocktails that experiment without being too wild. The Thirsty Dog — a homage to the spot’s predecessor, pairs cucumber-infused gin with apple, elderflower, lime, and vibrant purple butterfly tea in a lively libation that tastes like summer in a cup.
We know a future icon when we see one, and this K’Rd spot is exactly that. The Mazza-Carson’s new venue embraces the road’s history and essence while bringing it into the here and now.
With plans to expand the offering based on what customers are seeking, bring live music back to the once-iconic venue, and much, much more — at this light-filled, laid-back and lively new local, the future looks bright.
Opening hours:
Tuesday – Sunday, 11am until 11pm
469 Karangahape Road
Auckland
