Tiffany & Co.’s Blue Book collections are the brand’s highest evolution of jewellery — limited edition or one-of-a-kind pieces that encapsulate every element of the 187 year old maison’s prowess; that of gemstone sourcing from around the globe, a design language that has been in development for nearly two centuries, and a level of craftsmanship that rivals that of the greatest ateliers of Place Vendôme in Paris. (The fact that the collection is named for the original catalogue from the company — the first ‘mail order catalogue’ in the world, first sent out in 1845, is lost on most customers these days.)
This year, the first of three phases of 2024’s Blue Book collection, ‘Tiffany Celéste’, was launched in Los Angeles at the Beverly Estate, an extraordinary 1930s party palace that was once inhabited by actress Marion Davies and her partner William Randolph Hearst. With its sweeping gardens and cascading pools, the peachy hued property was transformed into Tiffany & Co.’s own home for the evening, with a sparkling guest list that included Reese Witherspoon and her daughter Ava Philippe, Elsa Hosk, Emily Blunt and Suki Waterhouse.
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The first phase, like the two that will follow, is inspired by the great Tiffany & Co. designer Jean Schlumberger’s interpretations of all things celestial — from the moon and stars to distant galaxies. Given the vast archives on Schlumberger’s work at the house, including countless sketches and unrealised designs, Nathalie Verdeille, the company’s Chief Artistic Officer of Jewellery and High Jewellery – had plenty to work with.
In the ‘Wings’ chapter, Schlumberger’s beloved wing motif and the winged horse Pegasus of Greek mythology who lives on as a constellation inspire feather and wing-shaped patterns that at times sweep or swirl around larger central stones, with warm, yellow gold accents to highlight all those white diamonds set in white gold, and the occasional deep blue sapphire.
In the ‘Constellation’ chapter, rare star sapphires — cabochon-cut stones with an ‘asterism’ that gives them a unique reflection — are mixed with traditional sapphires and diamonds in a pair of earrings that could map the night sky, while in ‘Apollo’, the original Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co. ‘Apollo’ brooch, pavé-set diamond motifs are all but caged within yellow gold claws across bangles, earrings, necklaces and rings, giving them a retro-futuristic feel only enhanced by the astute placement of gleaming yellow diamonds.
Elsewhere, extraordinary ‘freeform’ aquamarines – stones that haven’t been traditionally cut and faceted but instead tumbled and polished to create mesmerizing limpid, organic forms — combine with sapphires, zircons, mother of pearl and diamonds in extra-terrestrial looking pieces fit for an intergalactic queen, while vibrant red spinel, in luscious raspberry tones, is the hero gem in the ‘Ray of Light Chapter’, which culminates in one extraordinary necklace that transforms into a tiara.
Tiffany necklace that transforms into a tiara from the Blue Book 2024: Tiffany Celéste Collection
Such was Schlumberger’s output and genius during his time at Tiffany & Co., there’s no threat of his work ever ceasing to inspire the contemporary creations — and thank god for that — we earthlings are in awe.
