For fashion enthusiasts, haute couture offers the chance to witness the industry’s most adept practitioners operating at the height of their creative powers. This meticulously hand-crafted branch of fashion, built on one-of-a-kind looks and spectacular runway shows, exists at the intersection of creativity and commerce. It is as much about expression in its truest form as it is about appealing to those with pockets deep enough to meet couture’s eye-watering price tag. And it is this duality that makes it so utterly compelling.
Paris Couture Week has just wrapped in Paris, having seen a number of jaw-dropping collections unveiled. From Shiaparelli’s statement-making proportions to Dior’s timeless femininity to Viktor & Rolf’s playful exploration of the mundane, Paris Couture certainly didn’t disappoint. Here, we round up some of our favourite looks on and off the runway.
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Chanel’s Spring 2025 Haute Couture show at the Grand Palais celebrated the Maison’s storied 110 years of couture. The collection paid homage to Gabrielle Chanel’s iconic use of colour, craftsmanship, and timeless codes while also hinting at the future under the leadership of incoming creative director Matthieu Blazy. The infinity-shaped runway, formed by interlocking Cs, symbolised the brand’s enduring legacy. While the collection showcased the excellence of Chanel’s heritage, it also left plenty of room to suggest the future potential evolution of the brand’s aesthetic and storytelling under Blazy’s direction.
Maria Grazia Chiuri’s Spring 2025 Haute Couture collection for Dior was a mesmerising journey through time and memory. Evoking a wonderland where past and present intertwine, Chiuri presented a delicate balance of sophistication and whimsy. Petal-like capes, lace-trimmed tulle culottes, and reimagined crinolines showcased a deconstructed elegance, while floral embroidery and moiré fabrics added a touch of poetic lightness. The collection masterfully played with contrasts, juxtaposing structured bustiers with fluid silhouettes and tailored jackets with ethereal textures. Chiuri’s vision for Dior is a testament to her ability to create beautiful and meaningful couture, marrying fantasy with modernity and empowering women through sartorial storytelling.
Daniel Roseberry’s Icarus collection for Schiaparelli’s Spring 2025 Haute Couture show was a testament to the power of imagination. Inspired by vintage ribbons, Roseberry crafted a ‘liquid deco’ aesthetic, blending historical references with a contemporary edge. Fluid bias-cut gowns and corseted silhouettes with sharp hip blades evoked a timeless femininity. While referencing icons like Madame Grès and Yves Saint Laurent, the collection felt distinctly Schiaparelli – fearless, thoughtful, and rooted in artistry. Roseberry’s Icarus soared, reminding us that couture’s future lies in its ability to dream.
Viktor & Rolf’s Spring 2025 Haute Couture show was a playful exploration of the mundane. The designers subverted expectations by taking the classic trench coat, white shirt, and navy pants, transforming this simple ensemble into 24 imaginative variations. Through deconstruction, exaggeration, and a healthy dose of surrealism, Viktor & Rolf challenged the notion of quiet luxury and injected a sense of fun into the conversation. This collection was a reminder that fashion can be a powerful tool for self-expression and a means to challenge the status quo.
