This season’s London Fashion Week wasn’t just about showcasing the latest trends for Spring 2025. It was a landmark year marking the event’s 40th anniversary. This milestone coincided with a period of change for the industry, with both established and emerging designers facing financial challenges.
But amidst the obvious obstacles, London’s fashion scene thrived. At Denizen we always have an affinity to homegrown talent Emilia Wickstead who continues her reign as the go-to for Royals and London socialites alike. While other favourites were the work of independent designers who’ve launched their brands in recent years such as Nensi Dojaka who stood out among the city’s ever-present multicultural influence. London icon Burberry continued its evolution under the creative direction of Daniel Lee, while JW Anderson stole the show with a collection that pushed the boundaries of fashion itself.
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Here are our top picks from London Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2025.
New Zealand-born, British fashion sensation Emilia Wickstead’s show was a playful dance between feminine elegance and rebellion. Moving on from the industrial basements and darker tones of her last season, the Spring/Summer 2025 collection masterfully blends her signature sleek femininity with a touch of unexpected rebellion.
Drawing inspiration from photographer Gisèle Freund’s portraits of intellectual powerhouses, Wickstead creates a “girl gang” ready to conquer the world. Think precise tailoring and elegant lines, punctuated by pops of colour and playful details like fringing and floral prints. Boyish knits offer a touch of androgyny, while oversized tassels on sandals add a touch of whimsy.
The collection offers an array of looks for the modern woman who isn’t afraid to be both powerful and playful. It’s a testament to Wickstead’s talent for creating clothes that feel both timeless and excitingly fresh.
Never one for the expected, Jonathan Anderson’s namesake JW Anderson SS25 collection was an exercise in pushing boundaries. Removing the basic definitions of fashion, Anderson instead chose to challenge the norms, by creating playful deconstructed looks that had you questioning ‘Is that a dress?’ which was clearly the idea.
Anderson, a creative chameleon, approaches fashion as a language. This season, there was a clear focus on optical illusions; magnified, distorted details created a sense of playful surrealism. The collection feels liberated, yet still self-reflective with looped fringing echoing past seasons, and maintaining the brand’s signature cool.
Oversized silhouettes juxtaposed with mini-skirts with a daring transparency resulted in a statement look for the fearless JW Anderson devotee. Layering remains key, with each piece in the collection designed to be a building block in what is a unique sartorial story.
Nensi Dojaka’s triumphant return to London was a love letter to sensuality. Stepping back into the historic St Pancras Renaissance Hotel, Dojaka reaffirmed her mastery of lingerie-inspired design, bringing a sultry edge back to the London scene.
The collection saw a subtle evolution from her signature structured style. Gone were the strictly linear seams, replaced by flowing ruffles, soft pleats, and thigh-high slits. This move towards fluidity was underscored by a palette of delicate pastels, a refreshing departure from her previous starkness.
Dojaka understands the modern woman’s desire for versatility. While past collections paired her designs with sky-high stilettos, here we saw models in demure flats, hinting at a more relaxed interpretation of her aesthetic. Duality was key, showcasing clothes that can effortlessly transition from a night out to a luxurious night in.
The highlight was a capsule collection with Calvin Klein. Here, Dojaka’s signature pieces were reimagined for both evening wear and loungewear, proving the perfect fit for the lingerie giant.
This season was an affirmation of Dojaka’s burgeoning brand. From the star-studded front row to the industry heavyweights in attendance, the buzz was undeniable, her empowering designs and remarkable potential for bigger things were very clear.
The Calvin Klein collaboration is a win-win. For Dojaka, it’s a chance to test the waters for her own lingerie line. For Calvin Klein, it’s an infusion of fresh energy and a guaranteed crowd-pleaser. Either way, Nensi Dojaka is poised for a bright future.
Daniel Lee’s Burberry seems to be hitting its stride. The show, held in the National Theatre’s industrial space, mirrored the collection’s palette — clean and modern with a focus on showcasing his technical brilliance with an adventurous type of casual romance.
Standouts included reworked trench coats with unexpected cuts and proportions and a play on the brand’s classic check. The collection felt fresh yet respectful of Burberry’s heritage, with obvious touches to early 2000s Burberry. Reimagined parkas layered over sequin dresses and draped jersey looks whispered of past trends but with a modern twist. The menswear mirrored this theme, hybridizing utility with heritage. Think technical jackets and safari parkas, perfect for those who want heritage style with a modern edge. Cargo pants were reinvented in silk and cotton, stripped of excessive pockets and given a contemporary slouch. Lee’s understanding of Burberry’s core pieces shines through, particularly in the reworked trench coats. But it’s the shrunken biker jackets and party-ready parkas that show how this outerwear can work beyond traditional settings. The collection may be a sleeper hit, with the dresses and blouses becoming the pieces that truly define Lee’s Burberry vision. Time will tell if this new collection will secure a dedicated fan base, but for now, it’s clear Lee is building a strong aesthetic code for the brand.
