The City of Lights cast a multifaceted glow on this year’s Paris Fashion Week. With a sense of anxiety in the air — echoes of the Olympics and a sense of luxury stagnation. Yet, amidst these challenges, Parisian designers did what they do best: they rose to the occasion.
The Spring 2025 collections embraced a new kind of essentialism. Gone was the need for purely decorative flourishes. Functionality took centre stage, but not at the expense of creativity or character. Showcasing pieces that prove fashion can be both useful and utterly captivating, the Spring 2025 collection was about clothes that empower you to navigate the complexities of the contemporary world, all while looking undeniably chic.
The much-anticipated debut collection by Alessandro Michele for Valentino was sure to spark debate. While many are concerned by the departure from the brand’s heritage, others see the new Valentino under Michele’s creative vision as a faithful reinterpretation.
Michele — well known for his thematic shows — delivered a collection steeped in Valentino’s past. There was a very apparent and considered deep dive into Valentino’s archives. Cropped polka dots echo Iman’s 1985 look, embellished jackets recall Fall 2002 couture, and ruffles harken back to Spring 2002 ready-to-wear.
The question is, is there still a place for Michele’s signature eclecticism? While it’s still magical and whimsical, does it feel as revolutionary as it once did? Many expected a reinvention for Valentino, but this collection stays true to Michele’s mash-up of vintage aesthetics.
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Jonathan Anderson’s collection for Loewe shone with freedom of movement and playful whimsy. Dresses, skirts, and jackets were adorned with hoops, creating a surreal spinning top effect. The technical precision made them feel ready to take flight, a notion further emphasised by feather-based T-shirts, tailoring, and trousers.
Chiffon dresses with floral prints suspended in animation, with removable hoops allowing the wearer to interpret the look to their own desires. The collection mirrored a symphony, with silhouettes repeated in different fabrics or colours. Two iridescent pearl shell fit-and-flare coats were couture masterpieces that are sure to demand vault-like storage for their preciousness.
Anderson’s creative perfectionism and mastery were present everywhere. Loewe’s SS25 was a delightful escapade through Anderson’s imagination, showcasing his technical brilliance and playful spirit.
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Dior continues its ‘Year of Sport’ with a triumphant SS25 collection inspired by female empowerment and athleticism. Building on their Olympic partnership and Maria Grazia Chiuri’s dedication to feminism, Dior championed female athletes. Multi-talented artist and archer SAGG Napoli opened the show, her performance a captivating fusion of art and movement.
The collection delved into the house’s archives, revealing a long history of incorporating sportswear. Chiuri references Christian Dior’s mother and her equestrian attire, a foundation for the Amazon suit and a symbol of female agility.
The collection offered a fresh interpretation of the Dior silhouette, merging classic elements with a contemporary, sporty edge. Cut-out swimwear, jersey dresses, and buckled cargo pants reflect a youthful spirit and freedom of movement. Peter Philips’ beauty look completes the picture, a post-workout aesthetic with smudged eyeliner for an active, empowered woman.
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Christopher Esber’s Parisian return saw a masterclass in delicate control. SS25 delved into volume and flow, inspired by 1950s undergarments and the ethereal quality of evening wear.
Camisole lace panels transform into fluid, wispy, and romantic dresses. Sheer fabrics are sculpted with silk vapour chiffon and hand-beaded ostrich feathers, creating an intimate transparency that evokes a dandelion in flight.
The colour palette was a study in contrasts — airy whites and creams juxtaposed with stark blacks. Dark lace and silk transform into sophisticated, gathered gowns, while black linen offers a touch of brutal beauty. The result is a collection that is both romantic and modern, a testament to Esber’s ongoing exploration within his design process.
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Chloé’s SS25 under Gabriela Hearst saw a refreshing return to unapologetic romance. In a world focused on female empowerment, Hearst embraces the feminine spirit, reminding us that strength and romance can coexist.
Light, airy fabrics and soft florals create a joyful mood. Billowing maxi dresses evoke a bohemian spirit but with a modern twist. The collection also presented a reinterpretation of the Flou blouse, a broad-shouldered silhouette from the 1970s archives, similar to the resurgence of the Dad bomber jacket.
Summer is Chloé’s playground, showcasing the antithesis of the cool French girl style. Effortless layering allows for easy transitions from runway to reality; floaty dresses, lingerie-inspired slips, and chic crochet swimsuits. The denim debate is settled with the introduction of the high-waisted slim flare, a flattering option for different body types and generations of Chloé fans.
Hearst’s understanding of Chloé’s heritage is evident. She avoids trendy edginess and focuses on reviving the brand’s core essence: girly romance. From lacy camisoles to flowing maxi dresses, the collection caters to women who yearn to embrace their femininity.
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Miu Miu’s Paris Fashion Week show was a masterclass in storytelling. Forget fleeting live streams — the true meaning lay in the immersive experience. The set mimicked a newspaper printing plant, while a pre-show film explored the concept of truth in a satirical future. But beyond the spectacle were the clothes. Think babydoll tees, retro sportswear, and reimagined 70s prints. Layered shirts, embellished dresses, and swimsuit-over-skirt combos challenged fashion norms. School uniform shirts, twisted and layered, symbolised the absolute truth of youth. This concept extended to the reimagined Petit Bateau tunic dress, a nod to childhood innocence.
Miu Miu dared to be different. Unlike many designers, Miuccia Prada tackled the post-truth era head-on. Her show wasn’t just about clothes; it was a call to action. She urges us to question narratives and consider our role in shaping truth through social media and expression.
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Saint Laurent’s SS25 under Anthony Vaccarello is a sharp departure from last season’s sheer layers. This season, Vaccarello embraced Yves Saint Laurent’s legacy, reinterpreting the iconic Le Smoking tuxedo and his concept of masculine tailoring for women.
Many of the looks mirrored the recent menswear collection, featuring voluminous, broad-shouldered suits, ties, and statement spectacles. Vaccarello added complexity with layered outerwear—trench coats, leather jackets, and bombers—creating a dynamic silhouette. What followed was an unexpected turn with flowing, paisley-printed tunics and tiered maxi skirts, adding a surprising touch of boho-chic from Vaccarello.
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Daniel Roseberry’s Schiaparelli SS25 was a celebration of heritage designed for a multi-generational clientele. He envisions mothers, daughters, and granddaughters all coveting and sharing these pieces, solidifying Schiaparelli as a purveyor of family heirlooms rather than fleeting trends.
Luxury is redefined, with pieces mirroring the brand’s couture in construction and materials. Whittled waists, dramatic shapes, and XXL trims echo the couture aesthetic.
The collection celebrates life with vibrant colours, 3D florals, and high-shine finishes. Signature Schiaparelli artistry shines through, making these pieces ideal for red carpets or those seeking a subversive yet elevated look.
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Victoria Beckham seems to have evolved her design language for SS25, blurring the lines between art and fashion. Opening her show with looks that featured body-cast corsets, there was an element of wearable art. Beckham delved deeper into the concept of dressing as an art form. Tailoring was hacked away with exposed construction becoming a signature. Slashed trousers, open waistbands, and deconstructed details challenged her traditional silhouettes.
Sensuality was also present via flesh-toned bodysuits and revealing cuts. Despite the avant-garde experimentation, Beckham’s signature denim still shines. A bubble hem skirt was a surprisingly playful touch.
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Demna brought defiance and volume to Balenciaga’s Paris show. Forget subtlety – this was about pushing boundaries and sparking conversation.
The runway transformed into a dining table, with guests seated directly on it. Models arrived like guests of honour, stripped down to boudoir-ready lace and suspenders. The twist? Flesh-toned body stockings added a layer of Balenciaga modesty. Printed tights mimicking lingerie offered a cheeky wink.
But the real showstopper was the corsetry. Demna reimagined traditional dresses, fusing a prim facade with kink-couture backs and tight lacing. This high point may reignite interest in Demna’s vision beyond streetwear.
Drawing inspiration from childhood fashion shows, Demna paid homage to clothes with a point of view. Expect debates to erupt around his blown-up silhouettes. Trench coats morphed into hooded bombers, and jackets became makeshift coat racks adorned with layers of outerwear.
He even reimagined collars, with Medici-style stand collars constructed out of five-pocket jeans. The finale featured spandex ‘pantashoes’ paired with body-hugging flexible spandex-wrapped nylon — a fastening-free innovation.
Love it or hate it, Balenciaga once again served as a feast for the bold.
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Chanel’s grand return to the newly renovated Grand Palais was a celebration of the brand’s heritage but also a glimpse into a future yet unwritten. The collection itself was a safe haven of familiar themes. Classic tweed sets received a spring refresh with feathery embellishments, and flowing capes added a touch of drama. Feathers, inspired by the birdcage motif, became a recurring theme, adding lightness in contrast to the weighty textures of tweed.
While there’s undeniable beauty in these timeless pieces, a sense of anticipation hangs heavy. Virginie Viard’s successor remains a mystery, leaving the creative direction in the hands of the design team. The collection is a competent homage to Chanel’s legacy, but it lacks the cohesion and innovation that defined the Karl Lagerfeld era.
One can’t help but wonder who will be the next visionary to breathe new life into this iconic brand. Yet, the show serves as a powerful reminder of Chanel’s enduring legacy. When the bird finally escapes its cage, the possibilities are truly exciting.
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