When Australian interior designer Charlotte Coote reimagined her own home, there was a raft of inspiration on which she could draw, having created countless spaces for clients across the country. That said, she ended up finding it a little closer to home, in the gardens surrounding her Mt Macedon residence in the Victorian countryside.
When designing her daughters’ rooms, rhododendron was the immediate inspiration, and liberal use of Resene pink paints was employed. Far from the Barbie or millennial shades of the moment, these dusty hues with peachy undertones were used to create a space that was timeless, sophisticated and chic. In fact, their effect proves that pink need not be reserved for the kids’ rooms alone, promising to bring soft femininity to any space.
Extending the pink theme to the living room, Coote opted for a touch of brilliance with a sherbet pink (a tone that simultaneously feels of-the-moment and utterly timeless), the bold approach imbuing the common area with a sense of confident, contemporary elegance.
Ultimately, Coote’s masterful handiwork reveals how a touch of pink can completely transform a room into something magnificent. And with the right furnishings, you too can harness the power of this colour to create a captivating ambience for your home. And in order to ensure you select the perfect pink palette, we recommend starting with Resene’s vast and varied options.
‘Punching above our weight’ is a phrase so entrenched in the Kiwi vernacular that it should be written on our passports. We like to think of ourselves as a country that exceeds expectations and excels beyond what our resources might suggest is possible — going so far as to entangle our sense of national pride with that very idea. But the promise of celebrating success and the act of doing so (particularly when one of our own really does go off and succeed on an international scale) are two very different things. And while it’s true that we have a number of hugely-talented entrepreneurs in New Zealand, there is a lot more to be done to support the global aspirations of those with bright ideas — especially if we want to celebrate success for real (and not just with glib one-liners). Having experienced this first-hand, Anna Mowbray is an entrepreneur who wants to shift the paradigm, and encourage others in the process.
You’ll no doubt be familiar with the story of Zuru. Started by Kiwi siblings Anna, Mat and Nick Mowbray almost 20 years ago, the company has, thanks to the immense determination of its founders, grown from humble beginnings in the shed of a Waikato farm to one of the most prolific toy companies on the planet — headquartered in Hong Kong but with operations spanning the globe. Its products are iconic (from Mini Brands to Bunch O Balloons to X-SHOT) and its reach is immense (one of the top 10 toy companies globally, Zuru now has an annual revenue in the billions, sells its products in over 120 countries and has recently branched into fast-moving consumer goods with considerable success). But perhaps most significantly, its founders stand apart from their competitors for their Kiwi ingenuity, single-minded perseverance and never-say-die attitude — a potent, propulsive mix.
That is the first thing that strikes me about Anna Mowbray. The director and co-founder of Zuru carries herself with the kind of confidence and sure-footedness that could only have come from years of self-belief and a mindset anchored in the idea that nothing is outside the realm of possibility (if you’re willing to put in the hours).
“We had a very idyllic, very humble upbringing, and my parents sacrificed a lot,” Mowbray tells me, describing a childhood of bare feet, Vegemite sandwiches, friendly competition with brothers and seminal lessons around the importance of education, independence and grit. “My dad worked so hard, and he was really entrepreneurial,” she continues, “he always encouraged us to be self-motivated and self-employed, and to take risks and build our own futures, which was empowering to us as children.” It proved a crucial example for Mowbray, that instilled in her an insatiable hunger for success, and an outlook that left no room for complacency, laying the foundations for her future as a business leader. It was this drive that kept her moving forward, even in the face of daily challenges. After all, the path to success is rarely smooth.
“I think the biggest misconception people have about me is that success came overnight,” Mowbray reveals, laughing. “They don’t know that it has taken 17 years of determination, tenacity, huge hours and massive sacrifice,” she explains, “I spent most of my twenties in a small town in China, not knowing the language or the culture, sleeping on factory floors, living hand-to-mouth with no outside investment, and setting up this business with nothing more than a vision for creating the largest toy company in the world.”
That Mowbray and her brothers built their business from throwing caution to the wind, relocating to rural China, diving into a space of which they knew very little, cleverly setting up their own vertically-integrated manufacturing facility and creating products to compete with the likes of Hasbro and Fisher Price, is a testament to their incredible dedication. Failure, as Mowbray tells me, was not an option. “In many ways, our naivety was our greatest blessing because it gave us this fresh perspective and positive mindset to be innovative and build something totally different,” she says. “From the outset we wanted to be as close to the problems and solutions as possible, so we established a supply chain that we owned completely — from ordering raw materials to creating the final products to marketing campaigns and strategy — and we quickly became the most knowledgeable company in the industry.”
Indeed, despite some early cashflow challenges, Zuru’s unapologetic approach of betting big and winning big paid off, resulting in products like Robo Fish (which sold 30 million units in 24 months), Bunch O Balloons and Mini Brands (both of which went straight to number one across all toy categories, globally). And while Zuru’s commercial success is undeniable (and much-discussed), what you probably don’t know is just how involved its founders still are in the day-to-day.
For Mowbray (inherently a problem-solver) this deep engagement with her company’s operations is something she loves. “I am always in the weeds, trying to understand where the problems lie and solving them efficiently,” she reveals. “I find I often spend less time in huge macro head spaces and more time focused on finding high-level solutions to everyday problems.” It’s a lesson in the value of simple, honest hard work and never being above the small stuff. Mowbray’s willingness to dedicate herself to finding solutions where others might not, and the voracious optimism that allows her to see any challenge as an opportunity, really is the secret sauce to her success. It also makes her a better leader.
“Anna has always led by example,” says Aneisha Viera, Global Brand Director at Zuru Toys. “She manages a huge cross-section of teams and departments including factories, sourcing, operations, sales, marketing, finance, demand, capacity planning, branding and more, and not only skims the top of these areas but engages deeply with their work, never missing a beat.” For Viera, Mowbray’s influence has been pivotal. “Even when I didn’t have confidence in myself, she saw something in me, and bestowed so much trust in me,” Viera continues, “she taught me what it means to be a leader, to get in the trenches with your team and the value of real, gritty, hard work… she also instilled in me the importance of balancing work with a meaningful life outside the office, for which I am so grateful.”
Indeed, what sets Mowbray very much apart as a leader, is the time she dedicates to ensuring that the people around her feel listened to and empowered. And, having spoken with those in her orbit, it is these qualities (well beyond any of her quantifiable accolades) that have earned the deep respect and admiration of her team.
“I am always thinking about how I can be doing things better or differently,” Mowbray explains, “and recently, I’ve come to learn the importance of being vulnerable, both in business and in my personal life.” As a businesswoman and a mother, Mowbray is no stranger to that neverending search for balance that is so familiar to many working women, telling me how, in the early days of Zuru, she would keep a cot in her office and change nappies on her desk during meetings. It’s an image that Viera also recalls in our conversation, telling me of one particular day in which Mowbray was into the office early and broke for a lunchtime workout before proceeding to breastfeed her youngest child while leading one of the most important licensing meetings of the year (finalising a deal that was crucial to one of Zuru’s biggest brands). “That day and every moment since,” Viera says, “whenever I have wondered or doubted if I ‘could do it,’ it’s that image of a workout-clothes-clad, breastfeeding, boss, CEO, nailing a multimillion dollar deal, that reminds me that I can do anything.”
To me, Mowbray is something of an enigma. She is bold, unapologetic and a powerful force in business. But she is also warm, relatable and incredibly generous with her time; as focused on helping others tap into their potential as she is on her own personal growth. “I get so invigorated by the idea of being able to grow people on our team,” she explains, “under my leadership across our toy business at Zuru, we now have a 70 percent female workforce, with women in over half of our director and upper-management roles.” It is Mowbray’s influence that people like Aneisha Viera and others who work for Zuru, like Head of Global Content Strategy Bec Hunter, describe as transformative, both for their careers and on how they carry themselves through life. “Anna is an empathetic leader who empowers and motivates her teams” Hunter says, “I have learned a tremendous amount from her, her genuine enthusiasm for success, her global perspective and adaptive style.”
But as much as Mowbray dedicates time to facilitating growth internally, she also wants to encourage a shift in the wider attitude towards entrepreneurialism in New Zealand. “We have got some truly phenomenal entrepreneurial minds in this country,” Mowbray says, “but we need to be better at celebrating those risk takers and courageous individuals who are going out and trying something new. We need to create an environment here that encourages people to dream big and supports them to act on their ideas.”
So what does that actually look like? As Mowbray puts it, “fostering entrepreneurialism is about local connectedness and leaders, investors and entrepreneurs being more selfless with their journeys.” It is also, she tells me, about mentoring young talent, and encouraging successful businesspeople to take others under their wings. This month, Mowbray will judge the Rise Up awards, which sees globally ambitious female founders vying for a grant that will help take their businesses to the next level. “We’ve got ingenuity in spades,” says Mowbray, “but often, we are too reserved or scared to put ourselves out there for fear of judgement… if we celebrate and support those who aren’t afraid to dream big, we will build more homegrown models that can be looked up to and replicated.”
It’s also, of course, about how far the New Zealand government is willing to help, not only by growing the talent density here, but by making this country an appealing place to build a business. Or, at least, as somewhere to which expat entrepreneurs might want to return. “As a country”, Mowbray articulates, “we need to look at how we can support business at a higher level, in order to unlock New Zealand’s huge potential… whether that is policy change to allow for sustainable and profitable growth, or what tax breaks look like for businesses bringing hundreds or thousands of jobs here, or visa and immigration laws… it’s so important for the future of this country.”
For Mowbray’s part, she explains how, since relocating her family back to New Zealand from Hong Kong (an unexpected, Covid-driven move) she has been involved in helping a number of start-ups here — some in an advisory role (such as healthcare accessibility platform, Health Now) and one as a founder (an HR-focused tech business — watch this space). And as much as she is still focused on growing Zuru’s already-considerable reach, she speaks to me as though she is just at the start of her journey. “I set this goal at the top of last year to get to a billion dollars of revenue across our toy business, and we smashed that,” Mowbray says, matter-of-factly, “so now, I have this desire to find new opportunities, new categories and new industries to conquer.” She continues, “I also want to figure out how we can solve different and more pressing problems in the world; we’ve brought a lot of joy and fun but now I’m thinking more about how I can make a difference in other ways.”
It is refreshing to talk to someone with such a relentlessly positive outlook; someone who looks at the challenges being served us by the world and sees only opportunities. When I ask Mowbray the advice she would give budding entrepreneurs who might feel discouraged by the last few years, she is practical and clear. “Create products with purpose,” she says. “Be a sponge for knowledge, learn as much as you can, shake as many hands as possible and be interested in people, learn what drives them to achieve greatness.” She pauses, before adding, “but above all, it comes back to the idea of vulnerability… seek out criticism and constantly challenge yourself by asking ‘how can I be better? How do I evolve?’”
Practising what she preaches, Mowbray is not naturally inclined to speak about herself (“this is not my happy place,” she jokes with me when we first sit down) but she puts this aside in the hope that sharing her story might inspire someone else to aim for the same kinds of lofty goals. After all, she and her brothers are living proof of the eye-watering success that can organically grow from hard work, good timing and unwavering self-belief.
To me, what is most impressive (beyond her obvious career accomplishments) is Mowbray’s inherent generosity — made all the more impactful when paired with her unique ability to make things happen. When Covid-19 hit New Zealand, for example, she set up a task force in China to procure and manufacture PPE for New Zealand hospitals, not letting the fact that it was in very high demand and in very short supply stop her. And after spending hours on FaceTime and Zoom calls (“I spent a month working 18-hour days,” she tells me) to understand the criteria of manufacturing high-quality and stable PPE, she funded and chartered five Air New Zealand planes packed with essential supplies to ensure our national stockpile would be okay in the case of an outbreak.
“She cares deeply,” Aneisha Viera says, “and I don’t mean about the business (that’s a given — built into her DNA), she cares deeply about her team and about people.” Mowbray is a rare example of someone for whom success on an astronomical level has not eroded their ability to be grounded, practical and empathetic. And now, the entrepreneur is looking to the future. “I want to make sure that I am giving back and helping others to unlock their potential,” Mowbray reveals, “but I also want to see what I can do by applying my skills to new spaces. I want to be useful and to make a real difference.”
That said, Mowbray also plans on dedicating a large part of the next 10 years to raising her children, explaining to me how she and her fiance (former All Black, Ali Williams) are focused on bringing up good, humble citizens who pave their own paths and grow to be passionate and compassionate people. Because despite everything she has achieved, when asked what she wants her legacy to be, Mowbray doesn’t hesitate. “It’s such a big question,” she says, “but the answer is actually really simple… my greatest legacy is my kids.”
Whatever Mowbray chooses to do next, I have no doubt that she will continue to punch well above her weight. “I don’t want Zuru to be the greatest mountain I’ve ever climbed,” she tells me, a twinkle in her eye. And incredibly, I don’t think it will be.
Image credit: Styled by Claire Sullivan-Kraus. Hair and makeup by Alexandra Stanworth. Shot on location at ECC Minotti showroom.
There is a wonderful optimism that materialises in the lead up to summer, and nowhere is this better expressed than in the new collections unveiled ahead of the season. After all, warmer weather offers the perfect opportunity to wear pieces that feel romantic, whimsical, feminine and vivid, pieces that are fun and a little flirty, and allow us to give our everyday looks a more playful twist.
It is these qualities on which local designer Caitlin Crisp has built her latest collection, Forever and Always — an ode to the rhythm and romance of summer.
Inspired by happy memories of singing along to Shania Twain with her mum on road trips, Crisp’s Season Eight is a collection that captures the unbridled joy of the season via bright colours, effortless silhouettes and elegant but versatile pieces that will take you from the beach to the bar and everywhere in between.
New designs like the Forever and Always dress (with its flowy, flattering cut and low back) and the Still The One skirt (as perfect when paired with the Cooper crop as it is when worn as a simple, strapless dress) sit alongside new takes on Caitlin Crisp classics like the Marsden tank, reimagined in crop and minidress styles. Elsewhere, the designer continues to create covetable shirting with her new Beach Shirt — a throw-on that speaks to the kind of easy elegance we demand from our summer wardrobes.
In Season Eight, Crisp has rendered her styles in signature linen, ribbed textiles and cotton broderie, alongside the exclusive, seasonal ‘Flowerbomb’ — a silk-cotton deadstock fabric, available in very limited quantities. In this way, the collection feels deeply connected to the Caitlin Crisp aesthetic we have come to know so well, while still offering an evolution of sorts. Here, the idea of elevated, everyday luxury remains, although with a slightly bolder, more confident edge.
So, as you start prepping your wardrobe for warmer days, it is to Caitlin Crisp’s Season Eight that we suggest you look first — a versatile, vibrant homage to the spirit of summer.
So meticulous are Emil Humbert and Christophe Poyet of Humbert & Poyet in their pursuit of design perfection that the duo will oversee every little detail of the project on which they are working. In this exceptional Parisian apartment, their lauded metier comes alive, where everything from the floors to the counter tops to the layout to the lighting (and even the bedside pendants) has been carefully planned out and executed, resulting in a residence that not only speaks to luxury in a tactile, interesting way but that directly reflects the unique personalities of its owners.
Located in the heart of the City of Light, this apartment had been left in a dilapidated state for years despite its position overlooking both the Eiffel Tower and the Jardin de Tuileries. So, when Humbert and Poyet were approached to breathe new life into the neglected space, they had to start from scratch. The first step was to reimagine the layout, which saw rooms enlarged and the kitchen moved from the back of the home to the front, so that its commanding, green-marble island would be one of the first things guests would see upon entering. This decision to move the kitchen to a more prominent position was also in response to the owners’ love for entertaining. Putting hospitality at the heart of the home, the designers created an open, inviting, light-filled space in which food could be prepared with a glass of wine in hand, all while enjoying the good conversation of friends perched at the counter.
The idea of hospitality extends to the home’s dining room, anchored by a custom-made, inlaid dining table able to accommodate 10 people. Running along one side of the room, two bespoke wine cabinets flank an extraordinary piece of art by Christophe Wool, and add to the promise of dinner parties on a whole new level.
Art was a major consideration in this home, with Humbert and Poyet using the owner’s vast and varied personal collection as a central tenet of their design. Pieces from artists like George Condo, Kelley Walker, Stefan Brüggemann and more hang on walls or sit sculpturally in eye-catching positions around the home, offering surprising moments of creativity and injecting every space with pizzazz. Here, art is important for the way it makes the design feel deeper than luxury alone, with Humbert and Poyet integrating it seamlessly so that it feels alive and impactful. There is an eclecticism and a playfulness in this apartment that really sets it apart.
This extends to the furniture, too. In the living room, a large De Sede sofa wraps elegantly around the entire space, with a vertebrae-like structure that makes it feel right at home alongside the room’s sculptural elements. It’s here that one can imagine the owners’ dinner party guests inevitably ending their nights, draped over the sofa’s unique curves or perched on the two vintage De Jeanneret chairs beside the marble fireplace, while the twinkling lights of the city peep in through the room’s French windows.
Elsewhere, pieces from the likes of Pierre Paulin, Emmannuelle Simon and Kelly Wearstler sit alongside custom-made furnishings and vintage finds, everything rendered in a subdued but sophisticated colour palette that not only makes the tactile finishes stand out but that gives this home a wonderful sense of depth and dimension.
If (as the saying goes) God is in the details, then this apartment is holy ground. The parquet floors were designed by Humbert and Poyet in a patinated style to make them feel storied and antique, there is a custom illuminated ceiling in the bathroom, and the use of marble on a number of key details (from the four types used to create the hallway floors to the incredible Arabescato Statuario bathtub) lends a kind of weighty luxury to the overall vibe. So specific were the designers about the marble finishes, in fact, that they took the owners on a trip to Carrara to pick the perfect stone in person.
Ultimately, this apartment is a showcase of Humbert and Poyet’s ability to layer materials, colours and shapes with such finesse that the resulting spaces offer luxury with a kind of untouchable nonchalance that could only be created by the French. It’s easy to understand why this duo’s particular perspective is so widely sought-after.
The commerce-art dichotomy that lies at the heart of high fashion is never more present than during Haute Couture Week. On the one hand, the pay-to-play nature of haute couture exemplifies its exclusivity (most pieces carry price tags in the hundreds of thousands of dollars), while on the other, it offers an expression of fashion at its most artisanal. Really, the collections unveiled over the course of the week feel more like art exhibitions than clothes, used to showcase the creative prowess of the world’s foremost fashion houses. And yet, they also often make the clearest comment on our culture, their one-of-a-kind, handcrafted nature allowing designers to tell the kind of story they can’t with ready-to-wear. It is part of what makes couture so compelling — even if you aren’t a customer.
For Fall 2022, Haute Couture felt like it had returned with purpose from two years of disruption. Whether it was through ideas of rebirth and regeneration at Christian Dior, reconciling the past with the present and looking to the future at the likes of Valentino, Schiaparelli and Olivier Rousteing for Jean Paul Gaultier, discussions of technology and metamorphosis at Iris Van Herpen or examining the cult (and cache) of celebrity at Balenciaga, the Fall season delivered drama and finesse in equal measure, and marked something of a comeback for this, most hallowed of fashion weeks.
Nowhere was the idea of a dramatic haute couture revival more clear than at Valentino, in which Pierpaolo Piccoli sent models festooned in feathered masks and powerful colours down Rome’s iconic Spanish Steps. Piccoli called it ‘The Beginning’ (despite his 23-year tenure at the house) drawing on Valentino’s history by taking the show back to the site of its original atelier. This history was woven through every look, too, where voluminous silhouettes (including an homage to the brand’s ‘Fiesta’ dress from its first ever runway show, reimagined as a mini dress covered in 3D red taffeta roses) met dazzling iridescent gowns and brilliant, bold hues — bright pink has, after all, become something of a calling card for the brand.
But between the glamour and drama, the message at Valentino was one of individuality and diversity. The casting felt as varied and well-considered as the pieces themselves and there was a smattering of men’s haute couture that offered beautifully-restrained tailoring and moments of pause between the more showstopping looks. By engaging with its past, Piccoli put Valentino firmly in the context of now — and he wasn’t the only designer this season to do so.
For the third iteration of Jean Paul Gaultier’s project, in which a different designer is given the reins of the brand’s couture house, Balmain’s Olivier Rousteing created a collection that spoke to Gaultier’s most memorable moments (including an ode to his breast-baring dress for Madonna at the 1992 amfAR Gala). It was the ultimate homage, as much to the iconoclastic designer’s era-defining aesthetic as it was to the unparalleled level of craftsmanship in his atelier — with incredible textiles and techniques on display (the moulded glass bodices, for instance, were created by those responsible for the stained glass windows of the Notre Dame) and looks that proved the power of Gaultier’s petites mains. It was both a joyful celebration of fashion and craft, and proof of how the echoes of Jean Paul Gaultier continue to ripple with significance through the wider culture.
Similar waves were felt at Maison Schiaparelli, where Daniel Roseberry dipped into the brand’s archives for inspiration, evoking its Founder, Elsa Schiaparelli, and the work of its former Director, Christian Lacroix. Cinematic and artistic, the Schiaparelli Haute Couture show demonstrated exactly why pieces from its past collections were simultaneously on display at Paris’ Musée des Arts Décoratifs — confirming its cultural status and importance beyond fashion alone.
Schiaparelli’s Fall 2022 Haute Couture captured a naive, 80s nostalgia in its exaggerated silhouettes and garish, embellished details, tempered with the kind of rigorous tailoring that Elsa Schiparelli herself would have likely worn. Structured corsets ensured waists were adequately cinched and hourglass shapes were reminiscent of the Lacroix-era woman. Roseberry’s variety of artistic appliqué also drew a clear line to Ms. Schiaparelli’s legacy of wearable surrealism from the 1920s, 1930s and 1940s — about the best example of fashion intersecting with art as you could ever find. (After all, the house of Shiaparelli built its reputation on collaborations with a number of renowned surrealist practitioners.)
This ability to anchor the significance of Schiaparelli’s past firmly in the now lies at the heart of Roseberry’s genius. His collections are romantic and weighty without losing their modern edge, and are artistic but inherently wearable, evoking a more nostalgic era of fashion and its potential for creativity.
A similar idea was offered at Iris Van Herpen, albeit in a vastly different way. Since her eponymous brand’s inception, this Dutch designer has pushed the boundaries of where art and technological innovation end, and where fashion begins. And if Schiaparelli exemplifies classic, old-world couture, Iris Van Herpen offers a look into its future.
For Fall 2022, this revered label created a collection that was, quite literally, out of this world, exploring ideas of hyper-reality, the Metaverse and posthumanism via intricately-constructed pieces (each of which took three-to-four months to create) made from a combination of classic couture techniques and 3D printing. Inspired by Ovid’s Metamorphoses, the designer used mind-bending silhouettes and sustainable materials to provoke questions around who we are beyond our physical bodies, and where we are going as human beings.
Exclusively a couture house, Iris Van Herpen has built a reputation for perspective-challenging, one-off pieces that marry sustainable materials with cutting-edge technology and blur the lines between fashion and cultural commentary. “All of my clients are basically art clients,” Van Herpen told Vogue about the ways her collections are received — her latest outing arguably the most collectible yet.
Interestingly (and perhaps counterintuitively) there are parallels that can be drawn between Van Herpen’s forward-facing haute couture and Christian Dior’s collection by Maria Grazia Chiuri — certainly not aesthetically, but in the way that both engaged with ideas of the future and focused on connecting their clients to the craft.
Grazia Chiuri created a haute couture collection that was subtle and contemplative, where a reserved colour palette and intricate detailing in lace patchworks and beaded embroidery highlighted the unparalleled craftsmanship at play in each piece’s creation. It was romantic and intimate in the way that much of the handiwork was invisible except to the client — Grazia Chiuri’s bid to forge a deeper understanding between the creators of couture and those who covet it. Tapping into the spirit of purpose with which the Maison of Christian Dior was founded in a post-World War II climate, the designer was inspired by the ongoing conflict in Ukraine to ground this collection with a similar sense of meaning (the starting point for Grazia Chiuri’s embroidered designs was the work of Ukrainian artist, Olesia Trofymenko), achieved in the choice to offer a more pared-back and purposeful overall look.
Indeed, pared back and purposeful could also describe the collections at Chanel and Fendi, both of which conjured the late, great Karl Lagerfeld (although in slightly different ways). For Chanel’s Virginie Viard, Fall 2022 Haute Couture offered a chance to loosen up and move out from under the shadow of her predecessor (or to propose a gentle evolution, at least) with a collection that felt relaxed but bold in style, and refined in execution; a collection that was comfortable enough in its heritage that no overt exertion was needed (although, just like at Dior, the meticulous handiwork of Chanel’s petites mains became obvious on closer inspection). With swathes of colour (something that felt new for Viard) and a more playful approach to accessories and layering, Chanel’s Haute Couture was very much on brand for the house, although less Lagerfeld than ever before.
In a way, it was a similar story at Fendi, although Lagerfeld’s influence felt more deliberate. Here, the brand’s Artistic Director Kim Jones offered a masterclass in quiet elegance, with a collection that evoked Lagerfeld’s legacy of simple timelessness as the ultimate luxury (married, of course, with eye-wateringly exclusive materials). From patchwork dresses in Japanese silk kimono fabric, sourced directly from Kyoto, to a trio of simple but sumptuous looks entirely in Vicuna (the finest natural fabric in existence; only able to be sourced in tiny quantities from protected animals of the same name) to sequinned, bias-cut slip dresses made from swatches that Lagerfeld had commissioned years ago but never used, the idea of heritage and unapologetic luxury permeated every piece at Fendi — even if it was just for the pleasure of those who knew what they were looking at. Here, as at Chanel, it felt like bona fide couture — exclusive, sophisticated, incredibly-detailed and impeccably constructed. Of both, Lagerfeld would have been proud.
That said, some designers preferred a less subtle approach. At Balenciaga, Demna continued his ‘meme-ification’ of high fashion with a show that spoke to the cultural cache of ‘celebrity’ and broke down some of the traditional barriers to haute couture, painting a future in which couture could speak to a new legion of customers and fans outside the long-established order. (Evidenced by the excitable crowd that gathered outside the Balenciaga show to watch guests arrive.)
From models in glossy, black face shields (like a parade of humanoid robots), to opening looks in a specially-developed neoprene made using Japanese limestone (an updated version of Gazar, the sculptural silk textile originally created for Cristobal Balenciaga), the collection started with futuristic looks before moving through a number of couture-worthy reimaginings of Balenciaga signatures (including jeans and denim jackets) and building to a crescendo of epic proportions. In a move that evoked the history of this storied brand, Demna called on celebrities like Kim Kardashian, Nicole Kidman, Naomi Campbell and Dua Lipa to take to the catwalk, and closed the show with a series of gowns that were twice as wide as the setting’s doorways (a tongue-in-cheek reminder not to take it all too seriously, perhaps?)
At its heart however, this collection both lived up to its hype and embodied the essential tenets of couture via exceptional craft and unmatched showmanship. What keeps Demna at the centre of the cultural conversation is the way in which he reimagines the established order without disrespecting it. Here, between the glamour, extravagance, craftsmanship and drama there was a focus on sustainability (25 percent of the collection had been made using upcycled vintage pieces and deadstock) and a view to making haute couture more democratic (if not by it’s actual prices then by the way in which this particular breed of fashion could be understood and digested by a wider audience).
Taking this idea one step further, Demna simultaneously opened a new Balenciaga couture shop on Paris’ Avenue Georges V, from which anyone could buy limited-edition items like the collection’s upcycled pieces, specially-made souvenirs and the ‘speaker’ bags that the models had carried on the runway — the result of a collaboration with Bang & Olufsen. Say what you want about Demna’s tenure at Balenciaga, no one can deny that he is the moment and his understanding of how ‘fashion’ must evolve imbues all of his shows and collections with a sense of urgency and importance — so much so that even those outside of the industry feel compelled to sit up and take note.
All that said, while haute couture offers an invaluable vehicle for the world’s most respected designers to execute their vision, it is as much a commercial exercise as it is a creative one. And if this season has proved anything, it is how fashion is able to move forward without losing sight of the beautiful, slow craftsmanship on which the luxury of this industry was built.
With the same care and consideration used by seamstresses around the world, Kohna Zari Ko began as a venture with heart — founded with a vision to help migrant women develop meaningful, rewarding careers in New Zealand. Building on the skills of some and sharing them with many, this new endeavour focuses on sustainability by giving new life to old clothes and fabric.
The Philosophy Translating to ‘turning old to gold’, Kohna Zari Ko seeks to provide valid work opportunities and new skills to migrant women in New Zealand. Using the reach of an online platform, the initiative brings together migrant women who have experience in sewing or an interest in tailoring, who are commissioned projects by individuals seeking some help with their clothes. This could be anything from basic mending and alterations (on pieces that would otherwise be discarded) to tailoring or bespoke works. In doing so, the collective helps to tackle issues of isolation and employment that migrant women face, alongside taking steps to combat fashion’s great sustainability problem.
Who Are They Kohna Zari Ko is an initiative driven by the same women it serves. Led by the Migrant Women’s Group and the New Settlers Family and Community Trust (NFACT), Kohna Zari Ko is an endeavour that keeps migrant women at the heart of its values and business model. Dr Fahima Saeid established Kohna Zari Ko as a social enterprise project built on an already-existing circle of women who had spent several years crafting together. The group continuously welcomes new women into the fold to grow their impact while developing members’ skills and empowering women arriving in New Zealand to build friendships, connections and valuable careers in the community.
What They Do With a considered emphasis on renewable and sustainable fashion (as many of the women working have experienced the industry’s devastating effects in its current iteration), Kohna Zari Ko allows anyone to commission projects in the sewing and tailoring field. The streamlined online platform connects those seeking support with experienced tailors and seamstresses who can offer simple hemming, clothing repairs, and more adventurous projects. Additionally, as a way of safely interacting with the community, the collective has been hosting pop-up mending events — at which their skilled members will bring your beloved garments back to life in front of your eyes.
How To Get Involved Kohna Zari Ko has made it as simple as possible to get involved and support the initiative while gaining something for yourself. Commissioning a project can be done by anyone via the website. Items can be dropped at any designated drop-off location, so your repair and refurbishing work can be completed with care. Not only will this extend the life of your favourite wardrobe pieces, but will support the wellbeing of those who have given up so much to be here and to make a better life for themselves.
We are deeply saddened to hear that Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II peacefully passed away today at her much loved home, Balmoral in Scotland, surrounded by family members. Queen Elizabeth was the spirit of the Commonwealth; her devotion and commitment to a life of service were unparalleled, and her 70-year reign unprecedented. This is not only a sombre day but a hugely poignant moment in history. Her loss will be felt across the globe, and she will be sadly missed by all she served.
The statement from Royal Communications reads: “The Queen died peacefully at Balmoral this afternoon. The King and The Queen Consort will remain at Balmoral this evening and will return to London tomorrow.”
A statement from the Queen’s son, now King Charles III, followed shortly after. It reads: “The death of my beloved Mother, Her Majesty The Queen, is a moment of the greatest sadness for me and all members of my family. We mourn profoundly the passing of a cherished Sovereign and a much-loved Mother. I know her loss will be deeply felt throughout the country, the Realms and the Commonwealth, and by countless people around the world.
During this period of mourning and change, my family and I will be comforted and sustained by our knowledge of the respect and deep affection in which The Queen was so widely held.”
So today, we reflect not only on her contribution to history but her legacy. For many of us, this will likely have been the last Queen we see leading the monarchy — with Charles, William and George set to carry on the Windsor family line.
Born in 1926, it was not at first thought likely that Elizabeth would ever reign. Her father, then the Duke of York, was the second son of King George V, and not expected to become king himself. Following the abdication of King Edward VIII, her parents became King George VI and Queen Elizabeth, with the young Elizabeth becoming the heir presumptive.
The Queen enjoyed many years of good health throughout her long life, only recently starting to scale back her engagements due to mobility issues. Just this summer, she appeared during the Platinum Jubilee festivities, waving to the delighted public from the Buckingham Palace balcony at the start and close of the four-day bank holiday weekend in June.
Earlier this week, the Queen carried out another historic engagement, meeting with the new Prime Minister, Liz Truss, and officially inviting her to form a government. The audience took place at Balmoral Castle, rather than Buckingham Palace (as is traditional), likely to alleviate the discomfort of travelling for the monarch. She then pulled out of virtually attending a Privy Council meeting on Wednesday evening, with a Palace spokesperson stating that she had ‘accepted doctors’ advice to rest’.
While her 70-year reign was not without controversy or concern, it should be remembered that Queen Elizabeth showed many what it meant to lead with compassion. One who, above all, holds both family and kindness very dear.
Today, leaders around the world acknowledge the impact she has had — a truly unprecedented leadership by a truly remarkable woman.
“My whole life, whether it be long or short, shall be devoted to your service and the life of our great imperial family to which we all belong… [I] speak to all the peoples of the British Commonwealth and Empire, wherever they live, whatever race they come from, and whatever language they speak.”
Like so many of you, Michelle and I are grateful to have witnessed Her Majesty’s dedicated leadership, and we are awed by her legacy of tireless, dignified public service. Our thoughts are with her family and the people of the United Kingdom at this difficult time. pic.twitter.com/sbID222iSQ
Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II embodied the British nation’s continuity and unity for over 70 years. I remember her as a friend of France, a kind-hearted queen who has left a lasting impression on her country and her century.
We tend to be spoiled for choice in the City of Sails, so whittling it down to exactly where to eat each weekend is the challenge at hand. It’s in this vein that we impart sage guidance with our suggestions of where to dine, imbibe, and be merry as we (hopefully) welcome the sun out to play. Without further ado, read on for our definitive guide to the best weekend dining spots in Auckland.
Friday night knock-offs at The Brit What’s Friday without a shared drink among friends? Whether it’s to celebrate your successes with colleagues or let off some steam with your mates, The Brit’s Britomart establishment is the perfect place to do just this. A pub at its core, it is the elevated take on The Brit’s casual nature that makes it so utterly visitable time and time again. Because the crowds love it too, if The Brit is too boisterous for your fancy, take yourself a few doors down the road for a more intimate pub experience at The Chamberlain, or head upstairs to Talulah for cocktails and whimsy.
Takeaway dinners from Baby G Burger Although this pop-up at Ponsonby Road’s Orphans Kitchen has been unprecedentedly popular, even a couple of months in, we think it’s just as delicious as its first week. Swing by on your way home for some knock-offs, or pull up a chair if you want to take in the lively surrounds (or are tempted by the thought of ordering seconds — because after all, who are we to judge?!).
Saturday morning pastries from Amano Bakery Pro tip: while a trip into the CBD might not be high on your Saturday morning agenda, it’s the simplicity of this morning ritual is that makes it so enjoyable. And tucked down the side of Britomart stalwart Amano is its beloved bakery, which serves some of the most delicious viennoiseries in the City. Our persuasion? A coffee and spring onion croissant to go, enjoyed with a walk down to the water’s edge — or a spot of shopping at nearby Commercial Bay.
European-style long-lunching at Non Solo Pizza Weekends are for long-lunching; that’s one thing we know to be true. And really, is there any place more iconic than Parnell’s Non Solo Pizza? With a courtyard that transports you back to European vacations and a menu that feels equally as authentically reminiscent, it is the perfect address to take up residence for the afternoon. Of course, pizzas are the main drawcard here, fondly thought of as some of the best in the city, but if you find yourself gravitating towards pasta, we’ll back you every step of the way.
Post-shopping pick-me-ups at Faraday’s Bar It would be remiss to find yourself in the heart of Parnell without stopping at Faradays, the luxury department store that houses some of the most coveted clothes in the country. And after a hard day’s shopping, a drink at the beautiful Faraday’s Bar, designed by the nonpareil touch of Cheshire Architects, is always encouraged.
Dinner-come-drinks with friends at Lilian A neighbourhood local we can always rely on, Lilian is perhaps the perfect place for dinner that rolls into something more sordid. What’s a few dishes among friends, over a bottle or two of wine, to see you really celebrating Saturday night right? To avoid any alcohol-induced misery the following day, a serving of tiramisu to share is always a good choice — trust us on this one.
Weekend brunching at Park Hyatt’s The Pantry If we’re not at the Farmers’ Markets on Sunday mornings, you’ll find us at brunch. Our destination of choice for weekends like this? The Pantry at Park Hyatt. Here, Executive Pastry Chef Callum Liddicoat offers nothing short of his usual excellence, with a menu that caters for manners of sin. But the real non-negotiable is a take-home pack of cookies, the hazelnut and chocolate chip being a Denizen team favourite.
Local’s Lunch on Sunday at Siso Following up brunch with a long lunch might seem excessive, but it’s something we encourage. Despite being available throughout the week, we think Sunday is the perfect day to indulge in a Local’s Lunch at Remuera’s Mediterranean-inspired eatery, Siso. While local is the brief, the borders are somewhat lenient, and $35 for two courses and a glass of matching wine is simply too good to pass up.
Sunset Drinks at Viaduct Harbour After a weekend of eating, swing by Soul Bar & Bistro if you’re craving a margarita and some of our favourite food (can we recommend the mac and cheese?). Otherwise, for a more casual affair, Saint Alice’s contemporary outlook is one we’re envious of every sunny Sunday, with live music and a crowd to match. If not there, you’ll find us at Rooftop at QT, Auckland’s original experience that set the tone for towering bars to follow. And as we watch the sun go down to the West, we like to reflect on the deliciousness of the weekend that was.
In her ongoing quest to discover the precise co-ordinates of the fountain of youth, our Editor-in-chief learns that not all roads to luminous skin need be harrowing.
In my long tenure as a magazine editor, I have inflicted on myself all manner of beautifying treatments, disguised — somewhat farcically — as editorial research. Because, let’s be honest, who wouldn’t go to extensive, experimental lengths for the promise of eternal youth? (Particularly if it was regularly served on a silver platter.)
And so it has been, that over many years I have suffered the slings and arrows (quite literally in some cases) of a range of invasive beauty procedures. And while many have worked wonders, others have left me feeling semi-violated by the intense pain their processes require, and more often than I would care to admit, have left me very little to show for my efforts.
Thankfully, the world of cosmetic enhancement, in recent times, has taken a step away from invasive, surgical procedures, instead, focusing on enhancing the quality of the skin itself. As a strong believer in this approach, I was interested when renowned French skincare brand, Sothys, presented me with the opportunity to try its new innovative Micro Dermobooster treatment.
Designed to leave your skin looking visibly younger, without having to go under the knife, Sothys unique cosmeceutical machine combines three functions; aesthetic microdermabrasion, controlled cosmetic microneedling, and a modelling massager, and promises the kinds of results that leave me intrigued to learn more.
So, in the name of research, I commit to the treatment protocol, carried out weekly over a six week period, and (luckily) find myself in the extremely experienced hands of Cheryl Welsh at Exhibit Beauty, in Auckland’s Epsom. With more than 18 years of working with the Sothys brand both in New Zealand and internationally, Cheryl, I quickly discover, is a master of her craft.
Having had previous experience (some good, some bad) with the likes of derma needling in the past, I admit to being apprehensive as to just how intense this treatment programme will be. I’m not one to pussy foot around (I expect results) and over the course of my decades-long skin care journey, I have come to associate meaningful results with a degree of discomfort and a required period of post-treatment healing. So it was a surprise to me that this was not the case here — particularly with the level of results promised. Each weekly treatment begins with the removal of my make-up, followed by a peel and deep cleansing. This removes dead cells from the surface of my skin by combining two types of chemical exfoliation via both products and mechanical exfoliation using a sterile, nylon, micro-rotating disc. And while it might sound aggressive, it’s actually very gentle (to the point of almost being ticklish).
Once the skin is clean, it’s ready for the next step which involves cosmetic microneedling with Micro-L and Micro-S handpieces that, rather than employing needles, use nylon bristles instead, that are less aggressive and more controlled, with no risk of allergic reactions. Via a series of customised movements all over the face, neck and décolletage, Cheryl is able to optimise the length and shape of bristles depending on the area, and swaps out the head to target smaller areas around my nose and lips. Contrary to similar experiences in the past, this process is so relaxing that I actually fall asleep.
While I am snoozing, the bristles are creating micro-channels in my epidermal tissue that allows for Sothys’ micro-needling solution to penetrate my skin. This causes a reaction that activates my skin’s fibroblasts, collagen and elastin production.
The next stage is a modelling massage, designed to reproduce the typical kneading and rolling usually done by a beauty therapist’s trained hands. Here, a tool with a flexible silicone rotating oval tip creates vibrations that cause the underlying muscles to contract involuntarily which serves to tighten and tone my skin. And the process feels divine.
The final step of this luxurious facial experience is the application of Sothys’ moisturising ampoules and SPF 50+ sun protection.
I leave each weekly appointment with a take-home course of moisturising ampoules, to be used morning and night for the following three days to boost the efficiency and long-lasting effects of the treatment.
After six weeks, I can say that I have never had so many comments on my radiant skin. It’s never looked more glowing. Even after a three-week stint in the dry air and harsh conditions of skiing in Queenstown, it’s still holding its form. And while one course of treatment seems to have done what it promised (and then some), I’ve been missing the relaxing and rejuvenating experience, so I’ve booked myself in for another six weeks, kicking off next month.
Challenge your perspective and elevate your surroundings with this selection of refined masterpieces. There is nothing like a new piece of art to refresh your perspective and lend new life to your space. From abstract figures to undulating colours, these refined masterpieces will spark conversation and add interest to your surroundings.
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