Fendi Fall 21

The It-bags for 2022 are far from conventional — try these sculptural handbags on for size

From Balenciaga’s figurative Hourglass to Louis Vuitton’s curvaceous Loop, these instant It-bags are made to move with the female form. Cutting unique shapes that add sculpture and a cult of personality, such shape-shifting bags are best worn hugged close to the body.

Givenchy Cut Out bag from Faradays.

Clockwise: Padded nappa handbag from Prada, Hourglass Top Handle bag from Balenciaga, Structure bag from Bottega Veneta, Loop Monogram Canvas bag from Louis Vuitton.

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Faradays opens its flagship bar, a sumptuous oasis of delicious bites and delectable pours

Having graced us with its presence in Parnell since November last year, luxury emporium and gallery Faradays has now added another enticing facet to its offering, with the opening of Faraday’s Bar. 

Should you have worked up an appetite or a thirst while perusing the likes of Givenchy and Alaïa, Christian Louboutin, Loewe and more from throughout Faradays’ stunning retail space, the in-house bar is the ultimate destination for delicious relaxation. 

Designed, like the rest of the store has been, by Cheshire Architects, all-natural materials make for tactile comfort. Sit back on custom Italian Henge leather seating, and be surrounded by silk, wool and canvas cloth textures, brass fixtures, tables made of Patagonian and Norwegian marble, and Te Kuiti limestone.

As befitting the emporium’s selection of fashion, homewares, beauty and art, the menu at Faraday’s Bar is suitably high calibre. The drinks selection champions French wines from Maison Vauron, such as the heady Château Margaux (Premier Grand Cru Classé) — voted among the top one percent of wines in the world — and the buttery, complex Etienne Sauzet Les Combettes. 

From Italy and New Zealand, there are outstanding pours from Tenuta San Guido and Craggy Range. The Champagne list is a marvel — no surprise, given Faraday’s Bar is the Southern Hemisphere’s flagship for Veuve Clicquot’s prestige cuvée, La Grande Dame. Find offerings from the Maisons of Ruinart, Krug and Dom Pérignon, including limited-edition pours found at no other bar in the country.

Food-wise, Barulho head chef Sarah Ginella has created a menu of delicious snacks like wood-fired bread with smoked tomato butter, market fish crudo, marinated octopus, chicken liver parfait and French fries with truffle crème. There are also larger plates like tuna Niçoise and a Wagyu cheeseburger — all served on custom Ginori 1735 plateware.

Whether sought out to rest and refresh, for a light lunch or a few glasses of the good stuff to ring in the weekend, Faraday’s Bar is a destination to delight in.

Walk-ins are welcome, or bookings can be made at faradays.store, by calling 09 217 1017, or by emailing [email protected].

Opening hours:
Tuesday & Wednesday: Midday — 6pm

Thursday & Friday: Midday — 8pm
Saturday: Midday — 5pm
Closed Sunday & Monday

Faraday's Bar

8 Faraday Street,
Parnell

faradays.store

Gastronomy

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This inner-city eatery has been given a new look and a new lease on life by hospitality maestro David Lee

There’s no doubt that the restaurant business can be a frenetic one — and David Lee has got to be one of the busiest hospitality entrepreneurs in Auckland. The Co-Founder, Owner and Managing Director of Camper Coffee & Roasters, Gochu, The Candyshop, Good Dog Bad Dog and Green Door Pizza has a stellar reputation for tapping into exactly what people want to be eating and how they want to be eating it. 

Now, for the first time, he’s taken the reins at an existing eatery and relaunched it as an even better version of itself. Pōni, previously known as The Poni Room, is situated in a prime corner spot in Commercial Bay, overlooking the Waitematā Harbour. Since opening initially in 2020, it’s been popular for its Asian fusion fare, self-serve rosé and cheeky nighttime vibe — the latter of which Lee will evolve to be an all-day eatery.

“I didn’t want to change the concept much, as there was nothing wrong with it,” says Lee. “It’s not about the concept — it’s more about the direction.” 

From left: Market Oyster, Ka R Lime Sorbet; Cuttlefish Sliders, teriyaki glaze, lime mayo and apple slaw.

Avoiding Korean cuisine, as he offers that at Gochu (also in Commercial Bay), Lee stuck with the mixture of Japanese and Chinese flavours, taking inspiration from Head Chef Fred Wong’s Cantonese upbringing in Hong Kong, to design the menu. While you’ll find some of the familiar dishes from before, they’re presented in a completely fresh way.

New, quintessentially innovative plates include ‘Hong Kong Vongole’ with Cloudy Bay clams, a crayfish bisque and ‘Fred’s special’ XO sauce, and moreish sliders that see pieces of cuttlefish marinated in a teriyaki glaze and served with lime mayo and apple slaw inside soft white buns. There are also ‘Char Siu Octopus’, a cold ‘Dandan Ramen’ that melds the best of both the Chinese and Japanese noodle dishes, plus bar snacks like oysters, popcorn shrimp and crispy squid tentacles. From the previous menu, the lamb ribs have stayed with a refresh, as have the grilled napa cabbage and the salt and pepper crusted tofu. 

Left: Dandan Ramen.

The rosé-centric concept has been replaced with what Lee believes is “one of the best wine lists” in town, created in collaboration with Wine Diamonds’ Dan Gillet. It features a comprehensive and varied selection of interesting, predominantly natural and organic drops, from Champagne and sparkling to whites and oranges; rosé, chilled and light reds through to full-bodied reds. Find great cocktails, beers, boutique spirits and non-alcoholic options, too.

The interior is now more simple and elegant, with the partitions and shelving removed to reveal the best of the view; the pink and red scheme has been replaced with black and more neutral tones, and the faux maple trees transformed with white foliage by Greenpoint Florist. Managing the restaurant is Laura Foolchand, who was brought on from Gochu to assist with the transformation.

Given Lee’s background in coffee and cafés, it seems only natural that he would bring a brunch offering to Pōni — coming soon, just on weekends at first. While the concept will keep developing, at its core is a simple philosophy: “really good food and good service in a good place”.

Pōni

Commercial Bay,
Level 1
172 Quay Street,
Auckland CBD

www.theponiroom.nz

Gastronomy

These are the Auckland eateries staying open over the summer holidays, plus we’ve rounded up all of the holiday hospo hours you need to know
Escaping the city for the holidays? We round up the best eateries up and down the country
Denizen’s definitive guide to the best fish and chips in Auckland — and the scenic spots to enjoy them

Partridge Jewellers’ in-house jewellery line — Partridge Hallmark — is ready to shine bright

Over the course of six generations, Partridge Jewellers has been committed to the craftsmanship of fine jewellery. Alongside the sparkling cabinets of its coveted international brands, it has carved out a niche for creating its own high-calibre designs.

Whether this unique jewellery has been crafted in-house, or commissioned by one of Partridge’s affiliate jewellery ateliers around the world, established relationships with the world’s finest sources and artisans — including those here in New Zealand — have made their mark.

The Partridge Hallmark line is a tribute to the brand’s 150 years of personal expertise. The various collections include revered specialty diamonds, including from Ashoka, Movàl, De Beers Forevermark and Argyle Pink, with a commitment to excellence and ethical sourcing in all facets.

Not only is each piece designed to be coveted and cherished today — meeting the highest of contemporary international standards — the ever-evolving line is also designed to be held dear from generation to generation.

A gleaming example is the Tourmaline Cluster Ring, which features a cushion-cut green tourmaline in a cluster setting for a cocktail ring that is sure to captivate at any event. The Double Row Ashoka Band, meanwhile, is a unique diamond band design featuring a mesmerising double row of horizontal diamonds.

From Left: Tourmaline Cluster Ring, Suspended Movál diamond pendant, Double Row Ashoka Band.

As shown by celebrated New Zealand model Jess Clarke in a new campaign, each piece captures Patridge’s passion for fine jewellery. Look closely, and you will see a small but significant ‘P’ symbol that marks each dazzling piece to Partridge’s exacting standards — which shine bright in their own right.

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Bitchin’: The Sound and Fury of Rick James.

The documentaries to enlighten your world view, and entertain you

From acclaimed LGBTQIA+ community photographer Fiona Clark to esteemed ocean explorer Jacques Cousteau and troubled musical genius Rick James, the central characters of these new documentaries captivate in their own unique way. As these deep-dive documentaries show, the spirit of an individual can inspire in multitudes. But what will be their legacy?

Fiona Clark: Unafraid
Her images of the LGBTQIA+ community in 1970s New Zealand are now celebrated, but at the time, Fiona Clark was shunned and censored. This documentary, the first feature film from local artist and filmmaker Lula Cucchiara, tells the story of how Clark overcame numerous obstacles to become one of our most respected social documentarians. Chosen as part of the Cannes Marché du Film documentary selection and having shown at the NZIFF, Fiona Clark: Unafraid is an inspiring watch not just for the queer community but for anyone who strives to live their life openly and without fear. Showing on the 22nd & 28th of January as part of the In The Shade film festival.

The Lost Leonardo
Mystery, intrigue, money and one of history’s most famous artists come together in this highly entertaining documentary following the 2011 discovery and later the $450 million sale of ‘Salvator Mundi’ — a painting that was authenticated as a true Leonardo Da Vinci, then vanished.

Becoming Cousteau
Dive into the life and legacy of one of the world’s best-known explorers in this warmly rendered documentary about Jacques Cousteau. Offering insight into the man behind the underwater adventures, groundbreaking inventions (like the Aqualung), iconic films and trailblazing activism, this is an utterly inspiring watch. Watch on Disney+.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YV0tMF9Ue8g

Bitchin’: The Sound and Fury of Rick James
A complicated man, an undeniable musical genius, Rick James’ turbulent life and career is spotlighted in this frank documentary. No doubt an inimitable talent, James was also the perpetrator of some very dark acts, leading the viewer to ponder the important question of whether art can exist in isolation from the artist and their actions. Watch on Apple TV.

Culture

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Don’t miss your chance to be a part of The Reserve, one of Auckland’s most idyllic developments

It’s no secret we’re of the opinion that Auckland truly has it all. World-class restaurants, retail, arts and entertainment; a great climate; vibrant cultures; and breathtaking nature hand-in-hand with cosmopolitan city living.

Thanks to all these desirable attributes, it’s more competitive than ever to secure a spot to call your own, let alone one with all the lifestyle additions that realise the full potential of our biggest city.

Enter The Reserve, a luxury lifestyle development that pledges to help its residents do just that.

The Reserve is located in Okura just up from Long Bay, overlooking the Long Bay-Okura marine reserve to the north and the islands of the Hauraki Gulf in the east. Spread over 130 hectares, there are 29 lots of pristine land, elegantly refurbished by Todd Property Group — and over half of them have already been eagerly snapped up. 

At the very fringe of Auckland, surrounded by nature and yet less than half an hour’s drive to the CBD, this development’s lots are generously sized at around four hectares each. Let your imagination run boundlessly, as The Reserve offers a sensitively rendered, waterfront foundation on which to create your dream home. Work/life balance will be within effortless reach as you make the most of the outdoors, should you wish to head out on activities like cycling on the bike trail, kayaking or paddle-boarding on the estuary or bush walks and beach runs.

In terms of fundamental infrastructure, the development goes further than most rural subdivisions, with urban services available for each lot. New entrances and roads make for ultimate ease of access, while the technology and amenities are world-class – think broadband fibre, reticulated sewer and water, smart street lighting, comprehensive CCTV coverage and gate automation.

There’s no need to choose between restorative scenery and ease of access to amenities. The Reserve is a mere 10-minute drive to Long Bay Village, or an equally-timed drive to State Highway 1. In under half an hour, you would find yourself in the midst of Downtown Auckland with all the liveliness it has to offer.

As mentioned, less than half of these developments are still available, so if a harmonious haven that will guarantee you the best of both worlds appeals, we suggest registering your interest with The Reserve.

Design

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Left to right: Off White, Burberry, Michael Kors, Saint Laurent and Gabriela Hearst all Fall 21.

Forget the grey area and lean into monochrome with these stylish black and white outfits

When it comes to perfect pairings, you can’t surpass the simplistic appeal of black and white combined in one look. A dynamic duo, black and white designs draw attention to graphic lines and ornate details. This season, black is the base colour to build on for an impactful contrast.

Left to right: Book tote from Christian Dior, Isabel Marant Zap Zebra belt from Workshop, Lavallière dress from Balenciaga, Gaby satchel in vintage lambskin from Saint Laurent, Archlight slingback pump from Louis Vuitton.

Left to right: Micro-check knit top from Louis Vuitton, Leather thong sandal from Gucci, Rixo Tracey Mono Square dress from Muse Boutique, Cleo Sequined bag from Prada, 30 Montaigne bucket hat from Christian Dior.

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Want to find out your “real” age? This at-home DNA test is giving unprecedented insight into healthy ageing

In our collective quest for everlasting youth, it would seem no treatment, product or endeavour is off-limits. Wealthy citizens in Ancient Rome and Greece are said to have bathed in crocodile excrement as they believed it had anti-ageing properties, while in the modern day, many of our experiments could be considered just as outlandish. From smearing our faces with snail mucin, placenta masks and even our own blood, to cryotherapy and stem cell treatments, not to mention the amount of pills and potions we ingest for eternal internal wellbeing, it’s no wonder that, in 2020, the global wellness industry was estimated to be worth US$4.2 trillion.

It’s not all about how we look — many of us simply want to feel our best for as long as possible, and this often results in a more youthful, healthy visage. But how do we know whether all this effort is paying off?

This is the question local nutraceutical company Science Research Wellness (SRW) Laboratories is hoping to help people answer. Founded by Biotechnologist, Cellular Health Expert and Pharmacist Greg Macpherson, SRW Laboratories has just released a groundbreaking new saliva test that tells you where your ‘biological’ age sits in relation to your ‘chronological’ age. This, in turn, indicates how healthy you are and how your lifestyle is affecting how quickly you age. 

“It’s a new level of technology that will help you assess where you’re sitting, and whether what you’re doing is working,” says Macpherson. “For those people who are interested in being as healthy as possible, it gives you a next level of insight.”

Named the DNAage test, it helps us understand what we can do to physically slow the ageing process from the inside out, and be healthier for longer. 

“We have a DNA clock, and what research has identified is that we accumulate things called methyl groups on certain areas of our DNA,” says Macpherson. “You can literally correlate the accumulation of that methylation with our chronological age.” What makes it even more interesting, he says, is there are then outliers who have accelerated methylation — i.e. relatively young people who are stressed and aren’t managing it well, or who aren’t exercising, and generally not prioritising taking good care of themselves.

If you think this includes you, and those already high anxiety levels are going through the roof, don’t worry. You can change it. “That’s really the beauty of this DNA test — you can benchmark yourself and either say ‘I’m happy being 50 and having a biological age of 50’, or ‘I’m 50 and I’ve just found out I’ve got a biological age of 70, and I’ve got time to do something about it’.” 

Even better, in this day and age, someone could have a biological age of 50 and decide they want to try and lower it to 30 — and, luckily, there are pathways to that now. A commonly cited refrain, first uttered by American professor Dr. Judith Stern, is “genes load the gun while the environment pulls the trigger”. In other words, while many of us can be genetically predisposed to certain conditions and ageing rates, it is possible to alter and improve these with lifestyle changes. 

We all know that a good diet helps our health and, according to Macpherson, “plant-based appears to have the best longevity outcomes, which is a double win from the perspective of the planet as well as our health”. An exercise regime is important too, consisting of a mix of resistance for muscle building, and cardiovascular fitness. Stress management is also proving increasingly important. While all of this is nothing new, studies around understanding how we age at a cellular level are at the cutting edge of scientific research. 

Macpherson explains that our bodies contain a key enzyme called NAD (nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide), which is involved in hundreds of processes including mitochondrial function, the energy generators of our cells. “NAD levels decline precipitously as we head into our forties, fifties and beyond,” he says. “So bumping them back up through supplements is quite rejuvenative.” 

The other function being newly explored is cellular senescence, which describes a cell that stops dividing. It then starts secreting inflammatory molecules to get the attention of the immune system, which recognises these and clears them out. “That all happens beautifully when we’re young, but for some reason from around our forties, the body starts to ignore them and doesn’t clear them up,” explains Macpherson. “This is thought to be the reason we have more inflammatory burden as we get older.”  

A key compound found to help with this is fisetin, present in strawberries. “The Mayo Clinic in America is doing research to see what the health benefits are if we clear these cells out, and in a mouse model they get a 10 percent life extension,” says Macpherson. “I think it’s going to be a mega trend we’ll all be on in five years as a really simple way for us to reduce inflammatory burden.” Fruit salad, anyone?

If you were to do the DNAage test, you’re not just then left to feel around in the dark after getting your results — SRW Laboratories gives users the option to share their data with the company, and it can then help you with a plan of action. The tests are accurate to plus or minus two years, and the algorithms are improving all the time, so eventually it could be possible to narrow that window to six months. 

While living to a grand old age is desirable for many, what’s important is the quality of life, not just the quantity. “It’s not just about radical lifespan extension but radical healthspan extension,” says Macpherson. “With every advance, like the DNAage test, we raise more awareness of the fact that we’re the first generation to have this type of technology — and it means we’re going to be able to age differently.”

The technology’s going so fast that we will have a radical life extension in the next 10-20 years, he says. “You want to arrive at that point, with your body in as good a shape as possible. That’s what I’m working on — how to be as fit and healthy as possible when this all arrives.”

Wellbeing

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The books everyone should read in their lifetime, according to Auckland’s leading booksellers

Now it seems we may have a bit more downtime on our hands, we’re thinking our reading list needs a refresh. From new releases to the classics, Auckland’s leading booksellers share the books that changed their life, and may change your life too.

Olivia Spooner — The Booklover Bookshop, Milford
I’m afraid I have to mention two books here as I couldn’t choose one over the other. The following books published this year stand out as being exceptional feats of storytelling: Still Life by Sarah Winman and Cloud Cuckoo Land by Anthony Doerr. These beautifully written novels are life-affirming, hopeful, and the perfect antidote to these challenging Covid times. They help to restore our faith in humanity and will live on in your hearts and minds long after the final page.

Helen Wadsworth — Dorothy Butler Bookshop, Ponsonby
This is impossible to answer — but I will tell you about a book I have just finished called The House in the Cerulean Sea. It’s officially a fantasy and does feature children with extraordinary powers — but it’s mostly a book about overcoming prejudice, standing up for what is right, seeing the good in everyone — and love! And I feel we could all do with reading books like that right now. Recommended for adults and children aged 11+.

Jenna Todd — Time Out Bookstore, Mount Eden
Ka Whawhai Tonu Matou: Struggle Without End by Ranginui Walker. 

Chloe Blades — Unity Books, Auckland CBD
I don’t think any books changed my life per se, but there are certainly titles that have landed in my lap at the right time. The Bell Jar by Sylvia Plath is why I went to university. Motherhood by Sheila Heti allowed me to ponder if fertility treatment didn’t work could I be child-free. Emilie Pine’s Notes to Self showed me that I should be monetising the dysfunction of my family. From the Corner of the Oval by Beck Dorey-Stein proved I wasn’t inept at understanding politics, I just didn’t find British politics half as interesting.  

Andrew Maben — Novel, Herne Bay
Murakami T: The T-Shirts I Love by Haruki Murakami. Murakami, my favourite author, opens up his eclectic closet to showcase his vast personal collection of tees with photos and essays of his favourites. 

David Peirse — Dear Reader, Grey Lynn
1984 by George Orwell. Prescient, chilling, relevant. How did he know?

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Journalist Charlotte Bellis on her career trajectory, working in Afghanistan and understanding the Taliban

On the 15th of August, 2021, the world watched with apprehension as U.S. troops withdrew from Afghanistan and the Taliban seized its capital — shifting governing power for the first time in almost 20 years. For New Zealand journalist and reporter Charlotte Bellis, who covered Afghanistan for the last four years with Qatar-based network Al Jazeera, it was a surreal day at the ‘office’, but one she took in her stride with characteristic resilience. Originally from Christchurch, Bellis has been a key conduit on the ground in Afghanistan and garnered global praise after she pressed the Taliban on women’s rights in the organisation’s first official press conference. Here, the indomitable journalist gives us an insight into her world, from her upbringing to her day-to-day on the job, and shares her honest thoughts on why the international approach to the Taliban needs to change for Afghanistan to prosper. 

Ed’s note: Since the original publication of this feature in print, Bellis has resigned from Al Jazeera. This interview was included in Denizen’s Summer issue in November, 2021.

I was basically mute as a child. I spoke through a doll named Molly, so if anyone said “hello Charlotte”, I’d lift up the doll and say “hello” back. When I got to school they said I needed speech and drama classes so I did that until I was 18. It’s quite surreal to think they helped me get from being too shy to speak, to my job now.

Growing up in Christchurch, my dad was a sheep farmer and my mother was at home. Neither of them had much interest in international news or affairs. We just watched the 6pm News each night and read the Press newspaper each morning. I moved to the U.S. after high school and there became more interested in global politics and conflict.

Most people remember where they were on 9/11. I was in high school and I remember it vividly. I think that made quite an impact on me, watching what happened afterwards and seeing it on our news. I always wanted to be a journalist and I think that sowed the seed for pursuing international news in my twenties.

My father was competitive and I had a fairly regimented childhood. From when I was five, I was playing tennis multiple hours a day, before school and after school; then after tennis, I did homework for a few hours before bed. He, and my tennis coaches, instilled in me the concept of goal setting and not giving up, and that’s been really valuable in my adult life.

I feel privileged to be in Afghanistan at this time. I’m really proud of Al Jazeera. I think we’ve done a good job of being at the forefront of all the big moments and portraying things in a balanced way. For me personally, it’s been years in the making. I’ve been with Al Jazeera for five years, and in Afghanistan for four years and it’s been a lot of relationship-building and hustle to get to this point.

The biggest help in covering that first story [of the Taliban takeover] has been connections. I’m genuinely interested in the country and feel connected to a lot of the people in the mix of the story. I want to know them on a deep level, build trust, understand their motivations, what makes various actors tick — whether that’s the Taliban, the previous Afghan government or the Americans.

I’m quite pragmatic, which I didn’t realise before I started covering Afghanistan. I was surprised that I stayed calm under pressure. When the Taliban were entering Kabul, and all other TV networks evacuated, we were quite matter-of-fact, and said “let’s just take it step-by-step, make smart decisions, keep our heads down”, and that worked well. I think relationships and Al Jazeera’s longevity in Afghanistan play a big part in that. People are scared of what they don’t know.

For that first Taliban conference, I’d been messaging them earlier that day and at about 3:30pm they messaged saying, “get down to this building, there’s going to be a press conference at 6pm, see you then”. The English-speaking Taliban spokesman who was at the front of the room, I knew relatively well. We got there early, sat in the front row, and we decided to take the whole thing live. When they came into the room, my producer and I said, “we want to ask the first question and I want to ask about women’s rights”. And, I guess we took some initiative, and they were cool with it — so we got the first question.

I didn’t realise it was that significant at the time because I had been interviewing and communicating with them for a couple of years in Doha, where their leadership had been based during U.S. negotiations. For me, it was just another question — for the rest of the world, the perception was they’d just come out of caves and shown up at a press conference after 20 years. It surprised a lot of people to see that they were actually willing to let a woman speak, and answer in a semi-productive way.

It was genuine, but there are always qualifications. When they say they want to give women and girls rights, it’s within the framework of Islamic law. The previous government also ran under Islamic law but it depends on how strict your interpretation is, and when I pressed them on that in another interview they said they’re still negotiating that internally. That’s what everything hinges on. Many of the people they’ve put in power are hardliners from the 90s, so you can assume their interpretation will be very strict. But I have to add the younger generation Taliban leaders are much more amenable. They understand they need to find a middle ground between the old guard, representing highly conservative, rural Afghanistan, and modernising the country on all fronts. That’s an interesting tightrope to watch them walk.

Charlotte Bellis at the Taliban’s first press conference, August 2021.

I’ve been surprised at how Western media have covered the story. I guess it’s because it hasn’t received much attention in recent years that most people think of the Taliban as an inhumane terrorist organisation that hate women and are allied with al-Qaeda. It’s a lot more complex than that. Like any movement, there are many different faces of the Taliban. The majority are under 30, just children during 9/11, and were sucked into a war and bound by a revolt against foreign occupation and collective revenge for their dead neighbours, sons or fathers. They love cricket, selfies and the first thing they did upon arrival in Kabul was eat ice cream. The conservatism the West associates with the Taliban does permeate the old guard at the top, but it is also deeply cultural, a rural dilemma, and not uniquely tied to the group. I went to plenty of villages in recent years that were in U.S./previous government-controlled areas, where girls had never gone to school because their elders were against it. Unfortunately, the current narrative is superficial, one-sided, with an abundance of hysteria from the perspective of those leaving or the previous government. What is missing is context, nuance and a willingness to understand the internal workings of the Taliban and Afghans outside of Kabul. I believe it’s a disservice to our understanding of what is really happening and how best to support the Afghan people.

I’ve had some of the Taliban round to my house in Doha, and we’ll sit and have dinner and we can have a debate. These are the younger members, the next generation of Taliban leaders and they’re happy to be challenged on their positions. They’ll add context to certain beliefs and say, “we’re lost as to why this particular act or statement is causing uproar in the West, can you help us understand?” One guy said to me, “well, four of my brothers were killed in drone strikes, separately, and I was imprisoned for five years in solitary confinement”. It makes you think, “okay, honestly if four of my siblings were killed in U.S. drone strikes and I was tortured for five years in my own country, where would I stand and how would I think?” As a journalist, you have to have an open mind and genuinely want to understand. It doesn’t mean on a personal level you agree with particular policies but you need to try to understand how their viewpoints came to be. 

There are still guys who believe women should be stoned for adultery but then there are other guys who are very progressive and are happy for women to have full rights. They have grown up in the West, have smartphones and are quite happy to interact with me like any guy in New Zealand would. In fact, during the U.S. negotiations in Doha, there were diplomats in town consistently from not just the U.S., but Europe and the previous Afghan government also. I would meet with them all regularly and there was a common theme — the majority of diplomats were older men and flirtatious, often inappropriately so. When I met with the Taliban they were incredibly polite and respectful. One time, I made a passing complaint about the behaviour of some of the diplomats, to be told by one Taliban representative “we have heard how they act and we’re so sorry they put you in that position, just be careful and make sure you’re not alone with any of them”. I think back to that interaction often — who would have thought of all these Western leaders, it would be a Taliban member who offered me the most respect.

My typical day starts with waking up at the Serena Hotel, which is where most journalists and diplomats stay. It’s an oasis in the middle of Kabul with beautiful gardens and a buffet breakfast just like in any hotel — except when you go through the gates to exit, you walk past a dozen Taliban with machine guns. I say “good morning, how are you?” and they say “we’re fine” and I say “have a good day”. We have a driver, we go to work, call the Taliban or interpreters and touch base with different people about any developments, if we can expect a press conference, what’s the latest at the airport, anything that’s been ticking away. We go live on the latest news and then go out and film if there’s anything interesting. I usually finish around 7 or 8pm and then go home to the hotel, and order whatever I can find on the hotel menu that I haven’t already eaten, and go to sleep.

We have no security. To be honest, we haven’t really even talked about it. We’ve had the bureau there for more than 20 years, and there’s about 20 local staff, so for them, it’s just another day, except with another group in charge. If there’s ever going to be any security concerns, we talk about it as a team. At protests, for example, the Taliban were detaining journalists and beating them, so we made a decision to stay away. 

It’s actually safer now than before they took over, ironically, because it was the Taliban that was conducting attacks on Kabul. The only remaining threat is ISIS and the biggest problem with them is they may kidnap you, but we try to keep a low profile and move quickly — they usually target crowds, so we try to stay away from crowds. There are patterns where the risk goes up, and we’ve been working here for so long we can mitigate that fairly well. We haven’t had any issues since one of our cameramen was injured in an explosion a few years ago in an ISIS bombing. He survived, and that was the last time any of our staff were caught up personally in any kind of attack.

My career has been all over the show. I started off in the States and then my visa ran out so I came back to New Zealand. I was with TVNZ and Prime, and then I got laid off from Prime in 2014 — that was quite pivotal. I thought I either stay here, and work for another TV network as a reporter for the foreseeable future, or I give working for an overseas network another shot, because it had always been my dream and I was 27 at the time. So, I tried freelancing in New York for about a year and moved to London as a producer for Al Jazeera and the BBC.

I was in London freelancing for Al Jazeera the night the London Bridge attack happened. Our office was right next to London Bridge and a friend called me from the bridge and told me something strange was happening. I ran downstairs and got there as it was playing out, filmed everything on my phone before the police arrived and ducked back upstairs. I relayed everything to my colleagues and they asked me to co-anchor the next few hours as we rolled live on the story. After that, my boss gave me a promotion and moved me to Doha. As for Afghanistan, I just pestered them every second week until they let me go. 

One of the most surreal things I’ve experienced in recent memory was standing on a rooftop with our team the day the Taliban entered Kabul. The U.S. embassy was directly behind us. I remember standing there as helicopters were streaming in and out, dozens and dozens of Black Hawks and Chinooks. Then, they had other helicopters firing heat flares to try and mitigate against any missiles being fired at the helicopters from the ground. Standing on the roof as these helicopters swooped above, firing heat flares with huge fires coming from the Embassy as they burnt documents. It was surreal to watch it play out in front of us, while knowing convoys of Taliban fighters were heading towards the city.

There have been everyday interactions where I expected the Taliban to be incredibly harsh with me, and they were not. I was on the back of a motorbike with my boyfriend, driving around Kabul. We’re not married and in the 90s that would not have been allowed. They pulled us over and a Taliban fighter said “good morning” in perfect English, and then he said, “I just wanted to introduce myself, I’m going to be looking after security in this neighbourhood. I just wanted to give you my number in case you guys ever have any issues and I might be able to help”. We thanked him and he said, “no problem, see you round”. I left wondering if an Afghan woman would have had the same reception.

Another time, I went to the airport and there were senior Haqqani members there who were still on terror watchlists. Their fighters said to me: “Do you want to see our new U.S. Humvee? We can teach you how to drive it!” They refused to take no for an answer. I told them “look, I don’t know how to drive a Humvee and I’m in high heels. If I run one of you over I imagine I’ll be in big trouble — so maybe another time”. I could just imagine the headline ‘Al Jazeera reporter runs over wanted terrorist in U.S. Humvee’.

As a Western woman, I’m somewhat of an enigma, and I don’t seem to fall under their restrictions. If I was an Afghan woman I think my experience would be vastly different. It’s an assumption because at the moment many Afghan women are just too scared to leave their homes, so I have little to judge myself against. Although, I have two Afghan female friends who are journalists and still charge around the country talking to Taliban, taking photos and videos, and have been welcomed. At the moment, I think the distinction probably comes in that I know I have recourse — NZ, Qatar and Al Jazeera would back me if there was a problem, but who would back them?

We go to hospitals often after bombings and attacks and it is moving to see how people rally together. There’s one trauma specialist centre that is run by an Italian NGO called ‘Emergency Hospital’, most people go there. Outside is a tall stone wall with a hand-painted sign saying ‘Emergency’ and some bench seats. The seats are packed with relatives sitting side by side with their backs against the wall, often waiting days for news of loved ones inside. The hospitals don’t let them in, so they sit, waiting to see if one of their relatives gets wheeled out or if they can get a message through a security guard to establish if their relative is even inside. When you talk to these people, the stories you hear are emotive and heartbreaking. I always find that grounding. It reminds me there is a lot of politics and who’s fighting who, but it’s here you see the true cost for everyday people. These people are butchers, taxi drivers or farmers, and they’re the ones that pay the biggest price but don’t have the power to change anything.

On a personal level, I hope I can keep doing what I’m doing now for many years. But, I do want to return to New Zealand and try to find some balance between working in places like Afghanistan and being with friends and family at home. I’m still struggling to do that at the moment, but I’m hoping as my career gets more established, I will get a little bit more flexibility with how I work and where I work. 

For Afghanistan to have a better future, I think it’s not even up to the Taliban or Afghan people — it’s up to the international community. If we ostracise the Taliban, the only people that will suffer are poor and middle-class Afghans. We need to find a way to work with them, and essentially hold the Taliban’s hand to say, “we know you guys are passionate about Sharia law, but how about we look at something differently?” or, “we’ll do investment but we would like to invest in girl’s schools here and here, and then we can do some hydro-electric dams next to them”. Currently, the international community has cut off all funds. That means doctors aren’t getting paid in hospitals, they don’t even have paracetamol, food’s running out, prices are going up. Each morning hundreds of people wait outside ATMs hoping to get some cash out but there are limits in place, because the U.S. has frozen Afghan Reserve Bank funds and international transfers have largely ceased. Even though the West doesn’t want to work with the Taliban, they have to find a way, because it is poorer Afghans who are punished by the politics.

The Taliban does have some support in rural areas, but there are about 100,000 Taliban members and about 40 million people in the country. The majority of people are just going with the flow trying to put food on the table and trying to keep their kids healthy. It’s not fair on them to have another generation being punished for whoever is in power.

I’m most proud of being authentic and I really think New Zealand culture has a lot to do with that. My generation grew up seeing a lot of strong female leaders, yet still humility was championed. We have seen how the world should work — what free healthcare looks like, what it means to have comprehensive education and no corruption. If you take that as a foundation and go to a place without those things — you ask “how did this happen?” New Zealand has had an enviable list of foreign correspondents over the decades and I think the difference is we ask questions from a place of empathy and hope, not because we have something to gain.

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